Thursday, 6 April 2017

Shimano Alfine 11 Hub Gear Review

Shimano Alfine 11 Hub Gear Review - Why?


There are a number of reasons why you might want a hub gear, for most is is the lack of servicing required. For others it is the clean look it provides.

For me it was to avoid the waste of replacing my chain and cassette every 9 months, as they get coasted in mud from rural cycling that I rarely have the time to clean off.

They is also one other bonus for me and that is the reduction in noise level. No chain slap. No crunching of gears. It makes for a relaxing ride.

A neat set up (please ignore pipe lagging!)


I live in a hilly area, and a 1 x 9 set up does not really provide enough range (300%). Whilst the alfine hub, gives a little extra range (400%) and make the steeper hill possible without walking!

Shimano Alfine 11 Hub Gear Review - Gear Range


The Alfine 11 speed hub has a gear range of approx 400%, by comparison here are some other systems:


  • Alfine 8 Speed - 300%
  • 1 x 9 (11 - 34) - 300%
  • Sturmey Archer 3 Speed - 130%
  • 3 x 10 Triple - 550%
  • Rohloff - 520%
So you can see that the 400% offered by the alfine 11 is fairly large. You will need a front mech, rolhoff, or new fangled wide range 1 x 11 set up to match it.

View from above drive side.


Whilst a front triple ring setup will offer the same range for less money, the other two will cost the same if not more. 

Shimano Alfine 11 Hub Gear Review - Cost 


Compared with systems that offer similar or better range, at time of publishing.

  • Alfine 11 - £350
  • XT 1 x 11 Groupset  - £350
  • Rolhoff Speed Hub - £935
  • 2 x 10 Groupset Shimano - £260
There is one extra cost which must be added to hub gears and that is the building of the wheel. Which can be done for around £25 plus cot of rim (£30). 

Used with sliding dropouts in this instance.

Shimano Alfine 11 Hub Gear Review - Fitting 


The alfine 11 can be fitted on pretty much any bike with a 135mm rear dropout spacing. PERFECT INDEXING IS A SINCH. But there are a few extra things to consider.

The instructions although excellent but are split between 2 documents for:

When buying your parts just watch out for:

Chain Tensioning

If you have slot drop outs or horizontal drop outs then, you will be able to run the Alfine 11 without chain tensioners. Sliding dropouts are also an option. 

If you have vertical dropouts then you will need to use a chain tensioner. This slightly defeats the object of having a hub gear as it add complexity to the system, but is not too much of a burden. It will also stop you using a chain cover. 

An eccentric bottom bracket would allow the use of vertical dropouts, with an Alfine 11, without the use of the external tensioner. 

Fitting Kit / Small Parts Kit


In order to fit your alfine 11 hub, you will need to obtain the correct "small parts fitting kit" there are 3 or 4 to choose from. The main difference between each will be the non-turn washers, which have lugs at different positions for horizontal, standard and vertical dropouts. For example:

Be sure to buy correct fitting kit.
Wheel Building

If you intend to build you own wheel (and I suggest you have a go) then head over to "Ed Spoke Calculator" and tap in you hub and rim options. Then buy correct spokes.

Go for a 3 cross lacing, and opt for the 36 hole hub. The high the number of spokes and the thicker the rim, the more redundant strength you are building in to make up for amatur wheel building. 



Shimano Alfine 11 Hub Gear Review - In Use


In use the hub is very pleasant to use, but as with so many things it is a matter of preference as to whether the pros outway the cons.

Pros

  • Very snappy gear changes.
  • Shifter several gears at a time
  • Shift at a standstill  - this is really handy
  • Silent whilst pedaling and coasting
  • Perfect indexing very easy to set up
  • large range with no front mech
  • perfect chainline always


Cons



  • slightly spongy feel whilst pedalling.
  • rear wheel removal slightly more difficult
  • no quick release
  • slightly more complicated to fix a puncture

Shimano Alfine 11 Hub Gear Review - Conclusions


Whilst lacking the direct feel of a typical derailleur system, the Alfine 11 hub is an excellent bit of kit. 

If you are a utility cyclist, a tourer, a commuter or a rural rambler, then the quiet hassle free nature of the hub will suit you very well. It is set at a good price point and delivers plenty of range for nearly all situations. 

Time has proven the Alfine 11 to be a reliable component, and I look forward to the reduced service intervals, and quiet riding that is to come.


Shimano Alfine 11 Hub Gear Review - More Pictures 

Line up upper marks for perfect indexing. . . .

. . . .  or the bottom yellow marks.

Cable routing. . . a few zip ties required. 

Rapid fire shifter. . .

Upper indicator window is replaceable if cracked.

Shifter units is rather bulky. . . 

. . . bulky. 


Tuesday, 14 March 2017

Commencal El Camino Frame Review

Commencal El Camino Frame Review  -  Intro


Commencal are an ANdorran company that market this frame. The El Camino is billed as an everyday frame, and it a tough, versatile offering which might be considered for building up a commuter or a touring bike.

It is designed for 27.5 wheels up to 2.2" diameter, but I was running is with 26 x 2,34 tires, and it then has room for mudguards / fenders also. Fork is Salsa Firestarter Fork. So the bike can be built like this:


Or like this:

Which makes for a pretty versatile frame.

Commencal El Camino Frame Review  - The Ride 


This was my only negative. The ride is fairly solid, I think this is because I switched from a reynolds steel frame, to this one. Some may actually prefer this it certainly feels very solid and reassuring. I was not zinging this thing down alpine mountain sides so I'll leave any further comments here to those more qualified.



The frame has a lowered top tube by means of the gusseted upper seat tube section, which is a nice features and allows for a low step over height whilst using high vole 26" tires or 27.5" tires. The seat post is 31.6mm which allows for the use of dropper seat posts, although you can get normal seat posts in this size.

Commencal El Camino Frame Review  - Mounting Points


Excellent. There are threaded mounting points a plenty. Lots for mudguards, and the pannier rack mounts near the drop outs, are very deep so should withstand punishment. Unfortunately these do have to be shared is you are using fenders / mudguards, but this can be got round with a simple plate to add an additional hole for mounting fenders / mudguards which after all do not require much strength in the way of mounting points.



Commencal El Camino Frame Review  - Finish


The decals are beneath the lacquer and so are unlikely to be come scuffed. The frame I think is powder coated rather than painted and is a very high quality finish.

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Environmental Permit Applications  

Salsa Firestarter Fork Review

Salsa Firestarter Fork Review - Intro


A lot of the nicer MTB frame nowadays come with geometry to match a high travel suspension fork. If you want to then fit a rigid fork this limits you options, as you will need a long fork, to match the sagged height of your suspension fork, so as to not alter you head angle and relative saddle  / bar height. You can see Thorpy's Guide to Rigid Forks for more detail.

Used here with 26" wheels. Ideal for emulating long travel forks. 

Salsa Firestarter Fork Review - Ride


The fork visibly flexes as you ride, and has a lovely soft feel to it. I do not ride hard or fast, so I can not tell much more than that. My main requirements are that stuff is strong and comfortable, and the fork is certainly both of those.



As the pictures show I was using this fork with 26" wheels with 2.35 tires. It did not feel odd in any way, and I think the fork is good quality.

Salsa Firestarter Fork Review - Length


One of the best features of this fork is the 300mm steerer, but if you are listening salsa why not make this 400mm. Combine this with the axle to crown length of 483 and the whole fork is 783mm long, which is not a million miles away from the Thorn Forks (Mt Tura / Nomad), which measure in at around 830mm combined.

Salsa's "Enabler" Fork has a 350mm steerer, which would be nice, but the drop out spacing =130mm.

Uncut this fork will provide a ride that is considered up right for most.

Salsa Firestarter Fork Review - Mounting Points


There are mounting points everywhere, but not for low riders. There are 6 bolts holes (all supplied with M5 hex bolts) which are to be used with "Anything Cage Mounts". These are like giant water bottle cages in to which you can strap stuff like dry sacks or stoves.

In the arid expanses of the US I can see this being a OK, if rather clique concept. But in the UK. Everything would end up covered in mud for 60% of the year. Not Ideal.

"Classic" Fender / Mud Guard & Pannier Rack Mounts


Disk Brake Mounting point is present with rotor sizes up to 203mm accepted.

It is a bit of a faff using huib brakes with this fork, as the stanchions are so wide, but I doubt whether many will be doing this.

"Trendy" Anything Cage Mount Points


Mudguards or fenders can be mounted, but you will require some kind of fudge to bridge the mounting point at the crown. On my 26" wheel this gap is large, but on a 29 inch wheel or a 27.5+ it will be less of a problem.

Bodged Torque Arm Mount for Hub Brake. 

Salsa Firestarter Fork Review - Salsa Blurb


  • 100mm Suspension Corrected CroMoly fork
  • Suitable for Fargo and El Mariachi, and many others
  • Specifications*Steerer type: 1-1/8" straight(300mm)
  • *Axle to Crown: 483mm
  • *Fork Offset: 45.0mm
  • *Stem Clamp Diameter: 28.6mm
  • *Crown Race: 30.0mm
  • *Wheel/ Tire Compatibility: 29 x 2.4" max. tire fitment (but I had no trouble fitting Surly 3.0 tyres)
  • *Disc Brake: 51 mm I.S. Mount, 160 mm rotor Min, 203 mm Max.
  • *Fender Mounts:yes
  • *Rack Mounts: at Droput and Mid-blade*
  • Water Bottle Mounts: Anything Cage mounts of front of fork
  • *Dropouts: Stainless steel, forward facing
  • *Front Axle and Hub Info: 100 x 9 QR
Usual Warning 

"Dropper Plate" for Mudguards Required

Saturday, 4 March 2017

Drag Wood with Quad Bike

Drag Wood with Quad Bike - Intro


If you do not have a trailer, or in may case the ground is too boggy for the use of a trailer then you may consider dragging wood behind the quad bike. This is a stupid idea, and I do not recommend that you do it.

This is probably quite dangerous for the following reasons, and some other reasons that I can not think of:


  • The wood could dig in the ground causing you to stop suddenly.
  • The wood could dig in temporarily and then spring forwards hitting you in the spine, neck or skull or the bike.
  • The wood could carry on sliding when you stop and bash in to the quad bike.
  • The ropes could slip of the wood, and spring forward under tension hitting your spine, neck or skull.
To this end consider the following:

  • Use thinner rather than ticker rope so it is will snap easily, avoiding build up of tension.
  • Do not use chain or wire.
  • Do not use hook on the end of the rope. 
Like I say this does not cover everything but is better than nothing in terms of safety precautions. You might try wearing a a helmet and horse rider's body armour if you have it. 

Drag Wood with Quad Bike - How I Did It


I dragged about 300 lengths of wood, about 400 meters across a muddy field. I made slip knots in four length of rope, and put these around bundle of wood.

It worked OK, but the knots slipped off the wood occasionally. It is better to drag smaller multiple bundles than one big one. 

The wood gets covered in mud, and is tricky to work with thereafter. 

Muddy Business

Small Bundles are Better

Drag Wood with Quad Bike - Conclusions


Messy and dangerous but possible. 


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Tuesday, 28 February 2017

Specification vs Strategy

Specification vs Strategy 


What is the difference between a Specification and a Strategy?


Specification



noun

1.
the act of specifying.
2.
Usually, specificationsa detailed description or assessment of requirements, dimensions, materials, etc., as of a proposed building,machine, bridge, etc.
3.
a particular item, aspect, calculation, etc., in such a description.
4.
something specifiedas in a bill of particulars; a specified particular,item, or article.
5.
an act of making specific.
6.
the state of having a specific character.

Strategy


NOUN


  • 1A plan of action designed to achieve a long-term or overall aim.
    ‘time to develop a coherent economic strategy’
    mass noun ‘shifts in marketing strategy’
  • 2mass noun The art of planning and directing overall military operations and movements in a war or battle.
    ‘he was a genius when it came to military strategy’
    Often contrasted with "tactics" (see tactic)
    1. ‘non-provocative defence strategies
  • 2.1count noun A plan for directing overall military operations and movements.

Conclusion


Whilst a a strategy may explain what you are intending to do, a specification will describe how you are going to do it. 


Surface Water Drainage Strategy 

Thursday, 23 February 2017

Rigid Forks for Commencal El Camino

Rigid Forks for Commencal El Camino - Intro


The Commencal El Camino Frame has lots of mounting points for fenders / mud guards, racks etc. and as such make a great rough stuff touring, utility frame. To increase loading option still further, you may consider rigid forks from surly or salsa. But what length of fork is right.


Rigid Forks for Commencal El Camino - Axle to Crown


The axle to crown measurement is the one to look for. This is some time listed as AC or A/C. It is the measurement from the axle to the crown of the fork, the crown is where the crown race sits.

The Commencal El Camino full bike is supplied with a RST Blaze 27,5" Fork, the  axle to crown measurement for this fork is 495mm.

Rigid Forks for Commencal El Camino - Sag


When you hop on a bike with suspension forks the forks squash down a bit. This is called sag. Racing bikes are set to have about 10% sag, whilst non-racing bikes might have 30% sag. An average of 20% is usually used. So if you apply this sag figure you are looking at a length between


  • 445mm (10%)
  • 396mm (20%)
  • 346mm (30%)
Bear in mind that the radius of a 650b wheel is 325mm. So allow for clearance, fenders, and mud space. 

Rigid Forks for Commencal El Camino - Shopping


Most forks available from surly or salsa are at least 460mm in length. It is better to go longer than shorter, perhaps adopting the 10% sag figure from above. 

So based on the above we would be looking at the below fork options.

  • Surly Instigator (447mm) - Lots of mounting points. 
  • Thorn Mount Tura (430mm) - No disc brake. Lots of mounting points.
  • Thorn Nomad Disc Fork (420mm) - Excellent Choice. 
  • Gusset DJ26 Fork (430mm) - Cheap. But no mounting points. 

Rigid Forks for Commencal El Camino -  Good luck.

Have fun and cheerio. 

Monday, 20 February 2017

Thorpy's Guide to Rigid Forks

Thorpy's Guide to Rigid Forks - Intro


A great many of the features on modern mountain bikes are aimed at racing, and going really fast and doing stunts and stuff. People used to do all this stuff on rigid forks, and probably break their wrists in the process, but now we have entered the marvelous age of suspension forks.

BUT if you are a luddite, troglodyte or hairier than average you may want to stick with a rigid fork. But where does this leave you? Can you buy a frame that is design for massive 150mm travel suspension forks, and run rigid forks on it?

Exec. Summary - If you are running a high travel 26er or 650b, you will likley be able to find a long rigid fork to replace, but for a long travel 29er, you will struggle to find a mass produced fork to cover forks above 120mm travel.

I have produced the below table to help you decide method used is to follow (click to enlarge).





Thorpy's Guide to Rigid Forks - Length Matters

Obviously you will need a fork that fits your wheel, but there is also the ride characteristic of the bike to think about. 

An over long fork will give a "slack" ride. Some people actually like this as it makes for a relaxed steering feel. However, and fork that is too short will result in a steepening of the head angle of the bike, and the steering will become "twitchy". Unless you a slightly delusional and masochistic this is not a very nice thing. 

As you change the height of your bike front, it pivots around the rear axle. This means that sever changes in height at the front end will change the position of the pedals relative to the saddle, the taller you have the saddle set, the more difference this will make. 

Thorpy's Guide to Rigid Forks - Travel


The bike below has 150mm travel suspension forks. The frame was designed (i should think) to run with forks of this sort of size, because it looks really cool. . . and some other reasons.

There are a lot of reasons why you might want to run the above frame with rigid forks. The list is long, and might includes mounting panniers or fenders / mud guards for a practical use, whilst still allowing for the use of high volume (fat) tires and a low step over height.

But can you really put rigid fork on a bike like this? Of course you can but do some maths first.


Thorpy's Guide to Rigid Forks - Maths for 27.5"


The above bike takes a 150mm fork. We need to find the "axle to crown" measurement for that fork, or any other 150mm travel fork, of the same wheel size, which in this case is 27.5" or 650b.

If we look at Axle to Crown Lengths for 150mm travel forks is we can see that axle to crown length is typically around the 550mm mark.

So we will need to find a rigid fork the same length?  NO

We also have to account for "Sag". This is when you sit on a suspension bike and it squashes down, under your weight. For different travel forks you would apply a different sag:


  • 100mm = 20%
  • 120mm = 25%
  • 150mm = 30%


So for a 100m travel fork, you would subtract 20mm. And for the above bike we would subtract 30% of 150mm . . . .  45mm . . . which give a rigid fork length of 505mm (for the above bike).

What sorts of forks are that length?. . . , not many:

There are some high end fork with 500mm axle to crown measurements such as the:


  • 3tcycling rigid-500-mm-team (tapered headset - see below)
  • Carbon Cycles Exotic 49cm


Thorpy's Guide to Rigid Forks - Headset


So you can get a fork the right length, you now need to attach it to the bike.

Some of these bikes designed for high travel forks have a 44mm headset in which case you may already to running a straight steerer tube (Commencal El Camino), but a 44m headtube can also accept tapered forks, the above list are not tapered forks (although you may find some which are).

If you have a tapered headtube, then you may need to fit an adaptor to allow for the 30mm crown race on the above forks.

Thorpy's Guide to Rigid Forks - Mega Table


Based on the above method please find below table showing required fork lengths.









Travel 100 120 150
Wheel  Sag % 20% 25% 30%
Axle to C
26" 440 490 540
Sag 20 30 45
26" w. Sag 420 460 495
27.5" 470 510 550
Sag 20 30 45
27.5" w. Sag 450 480 505
29" 480 520 560
Sag 20 30 45
29" w. Sag 460 490 515



In general I would recommend choosing a slightly longer fork (10mm - 20 mm), rather than a shorter one. A shorter fork will result in twitchy steering. Feel free to browse for forks of the correct length, but you might opt for:


Yellow = Gusset Jury 29er or Surly Karate Monkey

Green =  Thorn Mount Tura (26")

Orange = Surly Krampus (483 mm) Salsa Fire Starter (483 mm)

Blue = Exotic 29er


Thorpy's Guide to Rigid Forks - Conclusions

Is you are riding a high travel 29er then you may well have to suffer a drop at the front end (shorter  forks) in order to swap over to rigid. However, for most other bikes with 120mm travel or smaller wheels, you will no doubt find an off the peg solution. 



Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets

1 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - Intro


The 1 1/8" headtube has been a constant in my life for the last several years, and I have enjoyed that constancy. Unfortunately, some clever people have decided we all now need a 44m headtube, which is bigger than the "old school" 1 1/8" headtube. The redeeming feature of the 44mm headtube is that it will accept 1 1/8" straight steerer forks, and 1 1/2" taper forks. Provided you choose the correct headset. So:

Good News - You forks will 95% likely fit.

Bad News - Choosing the Headset will be tricky.

Skip the Waffle? Scroll down to Sections 5 and 6

2 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - Sheldon Brown


First stop of information is Sheldon Brown's excellent website. But when you consider the variety of 44mm headsets for sale on the internet, the below list of just 2 options seems a little short.

Even Sheldon does not have all the answers. . . . 


3 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - The 44mm Family



The frame I was upgrading to, said is requires a "ZS44 Semi Integrated". A quick search for this term will bring up a selection of suitable headsets, however I was still curious as to what is a "ZS44". I came across a very handy PDF published by problem solvers:

44mm EC or ZS? - What is that?



The above paired letters EC or ZS may precede the "44" in any 44m headset, and this relates to whether the headset will have:


  • External Cups (EC) - Like most Older Headsets
  • Zero Stack (ZS) - Think trendy.
The important difference from here on in is that the lower headset can be designed for:

  • 1 1/8" - For the upper cups.
  • 11/8" OR 1 1/2" for the lower cups. To allows for 1.5" taper on modern forks.

4 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - EC or ZS



ZS or Zero Stock will normally be for the upper / top or the lower / bottom of the headset.

Whilst the EC or External cup is generally only used on the bottom.

5 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - For Straight 1 1/8" (1.125") Steerer



Choose the following:

ZS44/28.6 - For the top.

ZS44/30 or EC44/30 for the bottom. (30 relates to the 30mm crown race).

A note: The EC bottom cup set up will add about 10mm in height to the front of the bike. This may result in a "slacker" ride, and can be useful to make up height if swapping from high travel suspension forks to rigid forks. 


6 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - For Tapered 1 1/2" (1.5") Steerer



Choose the following:

ZS44/28.6 - For the top.

EC44/40 for the bottom. (40 relates to the 40mm crown race).


7 - Thorpy's Guide to 44mm Headsets - Conclusions 


The 44mm headset is here to stay, as it allows the use of both straight and tapered steerers. However, you will need to spend a bit more time thinking about what combination of headset parts you need.

Many shops now supply 44mm headset parts on a mix and match basis, so you will need to know more than just the one number. 

The flip side of this added complication is that if you buy a frame with a 44mm headset, you can run pretty much any fork in it. . .  .for the time being. . . . .




Monday, 13 February 2017

Build a BMX EBike

Build a BMX EBike  - Intro


If you are looking for a cheap bike to convert in to an ebike, then a BMX can make a good option. They are tough, small and soon fall out of favor with maturing kids, meaning then can be picked up very cheaply on ebay, and small ads.

Perhaps the biggest advantage is the small wheels, which on a ebike means greater torque (for a lower speed) for a motor of a given power.

BMX Ebike - Quirky . . . 


This makes them ideal for modifying for BMX cargo bike applications.

Build a BMX EBike  - Ebike Kit


Order this first as delivery can be slow.

The cheapest way to get the motor throttle and controller is to order it directly from china. This could cost as little at £150 / $250 with postage.

If you live in a flat area go for a direct drive hub motor, or geared in a hilly area. Choose a power level that is legal (for road use) or to suite your application. Choose upwards of 750w from off-road use.

My bike (orange) uses a MY1020Z motor, a chain drive option on the front wheel. A hub motor would be a better idea.

Build a BMX EBike  - Batteries


Lead Acid are a cheap option, but they are heavy and short lived. Lithium are expensive. Battery choice comes down to budget. Buy what you can afford. Battery voltage should match your motor / controller voltage.

Build a BMX EBike  - Mounting the Battery


Finding a spot for the battery is tricky. BMX frames are small, and finding spot that will not result in problems is . . . .tricky.

Ebike BMX - Battery Mount Options


Rear Mounted 


If you mount the battery at the rear, it will have to be thin and long in shape, so as to sit between your heels. If the battery is wide and square it will have to be set very far back, other wise your heels will hit the battery when you pedal.

Mount High at Rear to Avoid Heel Strike


Front Mounted


The few BMX ebikes which you see on the web, typically have the batteries mounted towards the front of the top tube. As you can see below I have welded a "basket" to put my bulky battery in. But you could use webbing pouches, or for light lipo (lithium polymer) packs, even duct tape can be used!
A lead acid set up, using a none welded bracket.

To be sure my choice would work I taped a cardboard box of a similar size in to position and cycled around to see if it got in the way.

Build a BMX EBike - Comfort


For comfort I would suggest fitting a maximum length seat post (400mm) if you are reasonably tall, and raising the handle bar height as tall as possible. I welded extra length in to mine, but you could fit some "chopper" handle bars for the same effect.

High Chopper Handlebars - Can increase comfort.


Build a BMX EBike - Tires


You will get more range from your battery using smooth tires. Knobbly tires on road being the worst option. If you are using the bike for practical reasons, why not install some tire slime / sealant so you won't get punctures.

Build a BMX EBike -  Limitations


If your are keeping pedal power just for the sake of legality, then a BMX is a good choice for the above mentioned reasons, but if you intended to do a lot of pedaling or need gears then opt for another type of bike.

Carrying stuff in panniers etc. is also tricky. Heel strike at the rear of the bike being a real problem. A saddle mounted bag might be an option for small items.



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Monday, 6 February 2017

Notes on MY1020Z Motor

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Intro


This is a fairly inexpensive geared motor made in china. It can be run at least up to 48v. I have tried 48v, and also 24v.

The MY1020 is a ungeared version of this motor, whilst the MT1020"Z" has reduction gearing.


Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Controllers


Yiyun Controller I have found to be good, very simple and reliable. I have used 350w (24v), 500w (24v) and a 800W (48v) variants of this with the MY1020Z.

MY1020 Mounted on Cargo Trike

MY1020 - Mounted in front wheel of cargo bike.


Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Performance


The MY1020Z is sold advertised at wattages ranging from 450w to 600W, it will take a lot more wattage than this. My MY1020Z has spent its life driving a front wheel driven 20" wheel ebike. At 24v 500W this will pull bike a rider up a steep hill at around 7 mph, but owing to a reduction in revs, the engine heats up. Some pedalling is required.

This was achieved with further reduction gearing with the 11 tooth sprockets linked with a 24 tooth freewheel.

This 11 to 24 tooth reduction was also used with the same setup, but with 48V 800W controller, this delivered much speed with little increase in torque.

The above setup would be useful in flat areas of the USA, where this wattage is just about legal. But in the UK, it would be advisable to lower max speed to 15 miles per hour.

This would require an 11 to 48 tooth reduction, to give a 15 mph approc top speed.

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Chain Gauge


The M1020Z comes supplied with a large gauge sprocket, commonly used on small scooters etc. But sprockets for bicycle chain can be purchased from TNC Scooters.

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Alternatives


For a more refined, efficient and altogether better choice I would recommend and Bafang BPM 500W.

Notes on MY1020Z Motor - Conclusions

Working in it favour the MY1020Z is a simple motor that is easy to wire, and provides good level of power if used with the right controller and battery. Owing to the fact that it powers a chain (rather than the wheel directly like a hub motor) this gives freedom to choose gearing. 

However, it is rather heavy. You will probably need to be able to weld in order to fit this to a bike, as it will require a sturdy mounting point. Its size on a bicycle will make it stick out of the side considerably. 

Monday, 23 January 2017

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - Intro


I have a massive / huge / disproportionately large head, and finding a cycle helmet (or any type of hat) that fits on this engorged melon has always been a problem.



The Bern Morrison advertised fitting a head circumference up to 63.5cm which is a tiny bit smaller than my dome, but it was the biggest I could find. If you know of nay bigger helmets please leave a comment.

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - Style


The helmet is a kind of mountain bikers, rough stuff tourer helmet. It has excellent ventilation holes, which add to the look, and keep the helmet fairly light.It sits quite low on the head, which I would consider a bonus. Here compared to a skate helmet which sits so low as to cover the eye brows.


Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - Fit

Fit can be adjusted using the adjustment screw at the rear of helmet, although in my case I undid this all the way. The system seems to work well though, and grips the head well, when used.


The "clicks" or increments on the screw I guess stop it coming undone, but they might be considered a little large, and do not allow for VERY fine adjustment, if you were being fussy.

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - More Pictures


Rest fo pictures not used thus far:

Label show size, and measurements etc.

Visor helmet interface

View from Front

View from top / rear

View from top / front

View from Rear

Bern Morrison Zip Mold Cycle Helmet Review - Conclusions


The Bern Morrison is a very high quality helmet, it is not super light, and I think is designed for rugged, and constant use. The style is futuristic, and I very much like it is every way except. . . .my swollen shill has defeated yet another hat, it is just too small!

I would say they are sized a little on the small side. My head is 62cm circumfrance when measured with a builder tape measure. So this hat should fit, but it is tight.

Bern - Official Blurb

Bern’s premium cross-over helmet, the Morrison is equally at home in the urban jungle and on the trails. A hard visor, ample venting, and premium Boa adjustment system (new for 2016) make this lid stand out both functionally and stylistically. 

The 2016 Morrison features our new Zipmold+ and Boa retention system. Zipmold+ is our proprietary liquid foam construction that is thinner, lighter, and stronger than traditional EPS construction. This allows for certified and safe helmets with an ultra-low profile and fit. Designed with 16 vents there is more than twice as much airflow than Bern’s other leading bike models to keep one’s head cooler on those warmer summer days. The performance liner with adjustable dial allows for a customized fit with moisture control and is replaceable should one need to freshen up a bit. 

Bern Morrison Video



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